Tuesday, 10/3: Upon arriving in Melide yesterday we entered the province of A Coruña within the autonomous region of Galicia. As a more urban city, Melide is a convenient stopping point for El Camino pilgrims. As we leave Melide, it’s amazing how green the landscape of Galicia is – and although we have not experienced it, apparently they receive a lot of rain throughout the year which explains the different landscape from the Castilla y Leon region that made up the middle part of our journey. Whether dairy pastures or sheep grazing pastures, there is always green around the bend. As we make our way from Melida to Arzua this is further reinforced.
It’s become apparent to me that Spaniards in these northern regions that we’ve traveled through are intrinsically tied to the land. Throughout our trip, in every region, whether we were traversing mountain roads, or farmland we would see Spaniards parked on the side of the road, plastic bag in hand, and walking into fields to pick mushrooms, nuts, or apples and pears. Not to mention the plethora of backyard vineyards and vegetable gardens that we’ve ridden by. It is impressive to see the bounty and self-sufficiency that I imagine comprises farm-to-table consumption in these rural communities.
One particularly bountiful specimen is the chestnut tree. Autumn is the season for chestnuts in many parts of Spain. With its prickly shell and sweet aroma, the chestnut has a history on the Iberian Peninsula stretching back to the ancient Romans. The European sweet chestnut tree grows well in Spain’s hilly western interior and in parts of the north as evidenced throughout our journey. Before the arrival of maize and potatoes from the Americas in the 16th century, chestnuts were an important part of the traditional Spanish diet.
And the flowers! Whether in gardens or just along the side of the road, it seemed one did not go very far without seeing them and smelling lovely fragrance.
It also helps that there is a lot of water everywhere!
And we arrive in Arzua!